Murmur Restaurant – Breakfast Review
A beachfront restaurant with sunny vibes
Nestled in the King’s Road Arches alongside the i360 you will find Murmur, the latest venture from Brighton chef and founder of 64 Degrees, Michael Bremner. The name is inspired by a murmuration, or the shape made when thousands of starlings flock together in flight – a spectacle that’s often seen between the two piers the restaurant looks out on. It’s breathtaking viewing, and as you enter the intimate 37-cover restaurant you are treated to yet another visual feast.
A sunny interior
Bright yellow chairs pop against grey tables, and if the sun is shining – as it was when I went for breakfast – light pours through the windows, bathing the room in a rich glow. Of course, you may prefer to sit on the 40-seat outdoor terrace and gaze at the sea or just kick back and people watch.
Breakfast runs until 11.30am and the 10 dishes on the menu range from a simple portion of toast to a Full English, which my friend chose. I, however, decided to try something a little different and with the sea so close by, Toasted barley kedgeree (£7.50) with mackerel and poached egg caught my eye. Next to grab my attention were five variations of Bloody Marys, but with the car in tow, I settled for a sweet, freshly squeezed orange juice.
Quality ingredients, modestly portioned
At £9.50, the Full English is about the average price for Brighton but the quality of the ingredients are well above average. Take the sausage for instance: delicious, not a trace of gristle and seasoned with ample herbs and spices. Then there were the baked beans – homemade using the same rich tomato pasta sauce from the kids’ menu.
Less pleasing was the hard poached egg, which was missing the runny yolk the menu promised. The streaky bacon was also cooked to a crisp, which is to be expected with American-style pancakes but with a Full English, my preference is thick-cut back bacon, crispy just on the rind. Ultimately, my friend’s clean plate at the end indicated he wasn’t quite as particular as me about all this.
Now onto my choice… Having never tried kedgeree before I was taking a bit of a risk, one that I wouldn’t necessarily take again either! Traditionally this dish consists of flaked smoked fish, boiled eggs and rice flavoured with curry powder, parsley and butter. However, the team at Murmur have put their own spin on it, replacing the rice with pearl barley and adding carrots and pumpkin seeds into the mix, with the mackerel sat on top alongside a poached egg and lemon wedge.
Mackerel can be quite an acquired taste – very strong and distinctly fishy – and I love it; so it was a shame this dish came with such a modest portion. The pearl barley was perfectly cooked; slightly firm in texture and richly infused with flavour from all the ingredients, but sadly the poached egg let me down again – its yolk was hard, so my hope that it would run out and mix into the barley was not to be.
PRICE: £23 for two with drinks
RATING: Must Go | Worth A Try | Give It A Miss
I’m always open to trying new food, but the mountain of pearl barley compared to very little mackerel didn’t do it for me as a complete dish. This is just one item on the menu though, so do explore the other breakfast options and let me know if you think the rest of the menu stands up to the owner’s usual reputation. If savoury foods are your thing, then perhaps the Cheese and ale rarebit (£6) will take your fancy. Alternatively, sweet-toothed readers may find temptation in the Banana pancakes with Nutella (£5.50). Either way, I see this as a spot to discover new loves and loathes… something eating out is all about.
91-96 King’s Road Arches, Brighton, BN1 2FN
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