Three Stack Pancake Pop-Up: Brighton’s newest & naughtiest breakfast spot
*19th July 2018 – Three Stack has now moved to: At The Villas, 21 – 23 Clarendon Villas, Hove
There’s nothing quite like starting the weekend with a hearty breakfast – especially if Friday night involved a glass of wine, or four. Brighton has a host of great places to fuel yourself but in the main, you’re choosing between a typical fry up or the dish of the moment (and a favourite of mine) avocado toast.
The arrival of Saturday morning pop-up Three Stack at The Square, on New England Street, brings a new and perhaps little bit naughty option… Three Stack’s small menu is all about American-style buttermilk pancakes and to date I have yet to try any better than these anywhere in town.
The menu has five core offerings and a weekly special, which I opted for on my visit. The pancakes are available in the standard three stack – or, for the very hungry, or to share – ultimate five stack.
I came by on a sunny Saturday in April with Simon and his daughter Bethany, who is a bit of a pancake aficionado. Bethany chose the chocolate and banana option – £5.50. Simon went slightly more savoury with banana and maple syrup soaked bacon – £6.50, while I opted for the special, cinnamon & apple – £6.00.
Each dish certainly was a feast for the eyes, loaded generously with toppings and care put into the presentation. The silence that fell as we dug in was the first indicator that these were something special.
Buttermilk pancakes can be a tricky dish to take on and in many places, I have tried them – too stodgy and doughy – resulting on them sitting heavily in your stomach all day and with very little flavour. However, we all agreed, these were delicious – as light and airy as a soufflé and the optimum thickness. The flavour was also spot-on, with a delicate sweet tang that the buttermilk provides.
Bethany, when she eventually stopped for breath, advised me that they were as good as some she had in a restaurant in Santa Monica, California many years ago – quite an accolade.
The bacon was also perfectly in line with the American style. Long rashes of streaky were firm, only slightly chewy and sweet from the maple syrup.
Whilst my special was perhaps not the most visually appealing of the three it absolutely delivered in flavour. The apple was soft and a good balance of sweet and tart – complemented by the dusting of cinnamon on top and light cream served alongside in a little jar to add if you wish.
With fine quality coffee and a selection of juices and smoothies too, Three Stack keeps things simple, which for breakfast is fine by me. Dining at 10 am, I was so full I actually skipped lunch – and I can’t remember the last time that happened!
Three Stack is the brainchild of young friends Ben & Russell who on a trip to Amsterdam were so blown away by a café serving these pancakes, that they came home and set up their own business. At present, the boys are focusing on private functions and the Saturday pop-up but plan to expand to a permanent premise soon. Occasionally you’ll see it pop-up at Cafe Plenty (just around the corner) too.
PRICE: £25.80 (3 people with coffee)
RATING: MUST GO | Worth a Try | Give it a Miss
Whilst Three Stack’s location isn’t central, don’t let that stop you dropping by. If you need to get the kids out of the house or are looking after nieces, nephews or godchildren – take a walk here and drop in, you won’t be disappointed and it’ll likely make you their hero.
The Square,47 New England Street,Brighton, BN1 4GQ
*Disclosure: My pancakes were complimentary in exchange for an honest and fair review but my guests’ were paid for in full.